OVER THE LAST 50 YEARS the world of wine has seen the arrival of chemical weedkillers and fungicides in the vineyard, and of new technology such as commercial yeast strains, centrifuges and reverse osmosis machines in the cellar. Real Wine is the story of an increasingly successful fight back, born of the desire to produce wines that take their taste from the soil. This battle has been led by an alliance forged between young and rebellious New World growers and such legends of European winemaking as Henri Jayer and Aubert de Villaine in Burgundy, and Jacques Reynaud and Lucien Peyraud in Provence. Consequently, even winemakers in large corporate companies are now using techniques that until recently were condemned in wine schools as old-fashioned. The result is a new wave of wines that have recaptured the classic virtues of complexity, individuality and the capacity to evolve in the bottle.