We don't know why Phil Schwind decided to write a cook- book. He didn't need to. His wife, Helen, already knows how to cook. Few better. We are, however, very glad he did. For one thing, we have always wanted to know how to get the last smidgin of flavor out of a quahog, but we never wanted to ask. Now we can go on pretending we knew all the time. Those of you who buy these delightful little books to send to friends and acquaintances can expect the thank you letters to contain three questions: 1 - Are these recipes real? 2 - Are the stories real? 3 - Is Phil Schwind real? The answers are yes, yes and sort of. Every recipe herein, conscientiously carried out to its delectable end, will produce a dish to be proud of. Most of the recipes are steeped in tradition, and are as old as the ingredients. None of them, however, is beyond the skill of a normally competent cook. Every story herein was real to the participants, whether it is true or not. And if you don't know the difference between reality and truth, go back to your toasted store bread smeared with oleo and washed down with instant tea. But the reality of Phil Schwind is not so easily attested. He is a shellfish constable and a long-time charter boat captain. But if by a "real" Phil Schwind is meant the booted shellfish constable, the long-billed charterboat skipper, the traditional character, the answer is no. There is no such Phil Schwind. This is an illusion. There is a real Phil Schwind, who so loves mankind he wants all of us to have the best and enjoy it with him. He has put some of that best in here. John A. Ullman Eastham Cape Cod Mass. May 1, 1967